Fertilizing Without Harm           (courtesy of St. Johns Water Management District)
If you choose to fertilize your lawn, follow the tips below to help minimize your environmental impact on the St. Johns River.

Read it before you feed it. 

Carefully read the label on the fertilizer bag. You will find three numbers: the first number is the percentage of Nitrogen (N), the middle is Phosphorous (P), and the third is Potassium or Potash (K).  Select a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer with little or no phosphorous that does not contain herbicides or pesticides.

Slow it down. 

Select a fertilizer with the highest percentage of slow-release or water-insoluble nitrogen that is available (50% or more is recommended). Slow-release fertilizers are less likely to leach out or wash away in runoff. This information can be found in the “Guaranteed Analysis” section on the back of the bag.

To determine the percentage of nitrogen that is in a slow-release form, divide the percentage of "slowly available nitrogen" by the amount or percentage of total nitrogen in the fertilizer. For example, a fertilizer with 15% nitrogen and 7.5% "slowly available nitrogen from sulfur coated urea" would mean that (7.5/15 = 50%) 50% of the nitrogen in the fertilizer is slow-release.

The Phosphorous (middle number) should be no more than 2. Our North Florida soil usually has enough phosphorous, so we generally don't need to add more to our lawns. If you just want your lawn to be greener, you may only need to add iron.

Consider using an organic fertilizer.

Organic fertilizers are slow-release and add organic matter to the soil. Organic matter helps to retain moisture and nutrients, meaning you have to water less and use less fertilizer.

Avoid fertilizers that contain weed killers.

Treat only the affected areas for weeds and insects and use nontoxic alternatives whenever possible. Consider pulling weeds by hand. Corn gluten is an excellent alternative pre-emergent and fatty-acid soap products can be effective broad-spectrum herbicides.

Establish a fertilizer-free and pesticide-free zone. 

Do not apply fertilizers or chemicals within 10 feet of waterways or adjacent to impervious surfaces, like a street or driveway.

Less is best.

When using a fertilizer with 50% or higher slow-release nitrogen (N), you can apply up to 1 lb. of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet per application. (In other words, no more than .5 lbs of soluble N/ 1,000 sq. ft.)  We suggest the University of Florida IFAS Extension’s basic, low-maintenance recommendation for St. Augustine grass, fertilizing twice a year during the growing season (early April and late September).  Click here for a link to UF IFAS Extension recommendations for fertilizing different types of turfgrasses.   You can green your lawn during the summer by applying Iron (Fe) in the month of June.

Never apply fertilizers before heavy rains and approaching storms.   Avoid application of fertilizer during the rainy summer months when it is more likely to leach or runoff into our waterways.

A complete list of River Friendly Yard recommendations:

Brand Formula (NPK)          Slow Release N          Where Available

GreenEdge (organic) 6-2-0 +3% Ca 79%    www.green-edge.com, Amazon, Ace

Milorganite (organic)           6-2-0   87.5% Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot, Phillips

 Ringer Lawn Restore           10-2-6, 10-0-6           90%   www.saferbrand.com

Espoma Weed Preventer      9-0-0   91%    www.espoma.com

Espoma Lawn Food  7-2-2   70%    Philip's, Earth Works

Corn Gluten Meal       9-0-0   -           www.extremelygreen.com

McGeary Organics     6-0-4   95%    www.mcgearyorganics.com

Nutri-Rich      8-2-4   81%    www.planetnatural.com

Jungle Growth Organic

            11-2-3 82%   Trad's Garden Center

 Scott's Organic Choice

            11-2-2 91%   Home Depot

GreenEdge and Milorganite are made with biosolids. Other types of organic fertilizers are made from manure, feather meal, bone meal, soybean meal and corn gluten. Corn gluten is also a natural pre-emergent herbicide.

NOTE: All fertilizers and chemicals can potentially harm our waterways. Please, use sparingly and with caution. St. Johns Riverkeeper does not promote the use of fertilizers or lawn chemicals and does not endorse any specific lawn care products.

The St. Johns River Water Management District (SJRWMD) has determined that we are reaching the sustainable limits of our aquifers. SJRWMD has identified 97% of the St. Johns River watershed as either a Priority Water Resource Caution Area or a Potential Caution Area. In other words, we are pumping water out of the ground at a rate that exceeds the rate of natural recharge.  If we continue using groundwater at the same rate, we risk harming our aquifers and the St. Johns by causing salt water intrusion, sink holes, damage to wetlands, and the decline of lake levels and flows of springs and rivers.

As a result of our impending water supply shortages, we must take action by using water much more efficiently.  Water conservation is much less expensive and poses much less risk to our river than  alternatives like surface water withdrawals.  Together, we can conserve water and save our St. Johns River.

OUTDOOR WATER CONSERVATION

Over 50% of water usage is typically outside the home, primarily for irrigation.  So, this is one of the best places to begin with your river friendly makeover!

Install a rain barrel.
Harvesting rainwater provides a free source of water for your plants and helps keep some stormwater runoff away from driveways, streets and our river.  Learn how to make one or where to buy one on our River Friendly Rain Barrel page.

Water only when needed. 
Often, rainfall may provide adequate irrigation for your lawn and plants. Irrigate only when your lawn shows signs of stress from lack of water. When the leaf blades begin to fold in half, the lawn turns a bluish-gray color, or footprints linger, it may be time to water.  

Follow the irrigation rule:

• March – November:  No more than twicea week before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.  Odd addresses can water Wednesday and Saturday, even on Thursday and Sunday, and non-residential on Tuesday and Thursday.
• November – March:  No more than oncea week before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. Odd addresses can water on Wednesday, even on Thursday, and non-residential on Tuesday.

Water early in the morning.
Temperature and wind speed are at their lowest rates, so there is much less evaporation.

Avoid over-watering.
Apply between ½" and ¾" at each watering. You can measure the amount by placing 5 to 7 wide-mouthed cans (the size of a tuna can) throughout the lawn. Use a ruler to measure the depth of water in each can. When the average measurement in each can is ½" to ¾", you can determine the amount of time it takes to apply the appropriate amount of water.  Overwatering can actually result in a shallow root system, making your lawn less drought-tolerant and more susceptible to weed growth, disease, fungus and insects. Consider installing a soil moisture sensor that will either turn on your automatic system when water is needed or turn it off when the lawn has received enough water.

Water efficiently.
Adjust your sprinklers to only water your grass and plants, not your street, sidewalk, or driveway.  Routinely adjust and maintain timers and sprayheads.  Use microirrigation or drip irrigation, when feasible.  Pay attention to the weather forecast and seasonal weather patterns and make adjustments to your irrigation practices accordingly.

Set it; don't forget it.
If you have an automatic sprinkler system, turn it off during periods of rainy weather and make sure your system has a functioning rain shutoff device.

Use River Friendly landscaping practices.  
Create or expand beds with native or drought-tolerant plants and groundcover.  Use mulch to retain moisture. 

Lawn Chemicals

If you choose to use chemicals in your yard, use them selectively and wisely.

Consider using an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach. IPM is a decision-making process that uses cultural, biological, and chemical practices to manage pests in a way that minimizes risk to humans and the environment.  If you use a pest control company, ask if they offer an IPM program.

Don't over-water and over-fertilize your lawn. By over-watering and over-fertilizing your lawn, you may actually be harming the health of your grass and increasing the likelihood of insect, weed, thatch, fungal, and disease problems.  Efficient irrigation and fertilization and proper maintenance often can be your most inexpensive and effective method of pest and weed control.

Know your enemy. First, identify the bugs that are feasting on your lawn, so that you can select the appropriate pest control option. Select the least toxic pest control option available for that particular type of bug.  You may be able to use biological methods that utilize the natural enemies of insects to control pest problems (Ex. mole cricket nematodes).  If you must use a pesticide, select the least toxic product that is available, such as insecticidal soaps, pyrethrins, horticultural oil, Bt, and Neem oil.  See a list of less-toxic alternative pesticide products below. Some of these products may be available at your local lawn and garden center, as well.

Spot treat. If you must use a pesticide or herbicide, treat only the affected areas of your lawn.  This will save money, reduce the threat to beneficial insects, reduce the amount of harmful chemicals that can potentially enter our waterways, and limit our own health risks from exposure.  Always try to use the least toxic chemical or alternative you can find.

Tolerate some weeds.  Try to tolerate some weeds in your lawn and keep in check by pulling weeds by hand whenever possible.  Use an organic mulch in beds and around plants to supress weed growth.  Corn gluten (a natural pre-emergent) and potassium salts of fatty acids are commonly used in organic products to control and kill weeds. 

Store and dispose of chemicals properly.  Take old, unwanted lawn and household chemicals to the nearest hazardous waste collection facility for proper disposal.  Chemicals can eventually enter our river or groundwater when they leak onto the land, are poured or flushed down the drain or toilet, or are discarded into a community landfill.

Carefully research pest control companies and ask questions.  Make sure they spot treat, are licensed and follow the Green industries Best Management Practices.  Ask to see the Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for the chemicals they are using.  Select companies that offer IPM, organic or less toxic pest management alternatives. You will find a list of questions to ask lawn care and pest control companies at the end our River Friendly Landscaping page.

SAFER PESTICIDES AND WEED CONTROL PRODUCTS

Safer Brand Bug Control Concentrate (pyrethrins, potassium salts of fatty acids)

Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap Concentrate(potassium salts of fatty acids)

EcoSmart Pest Control Products (clove, rosemary, peppermint, and thyme oils)

Concern Weed Prevention Plus  (corn gluten)

 IPM & NATURAL PEST CONTROL COMPANIES

Nature’s Way Natural Pest Control, Inc.
904-280-7563

Green People - Listing of statewide companies that offer organic pest control or IPM services.

Green Shield Certified - Find companies that practice prevention-based pest control while minimizing the use of pesticides.